Woodturns Resource Site for Woodturners
Woodturning ArticlesWoodturning InstructionWoodturning Tools & Supplies
Woodurning Clubs & AssociationsWoodturning Artist PagesOther Woodturning Resources
   Search Woodturns.com
About WoodturnsContact WoodturnsSitemapPrivacy Policy
Articles Home
Book Reviews
Design Techniques
Finishing Techniques
Miscellaneous Articles
Reference Articles
Tool Information
Wood Information
Woodturning Projects

What is a weed pot? That's a very fair question? My definition is: "any vessel for holding a single stem of grass or weed, that isn't a normally accepted vase shape". It's that simple. If it's capable of holding a scrap of grass, a cotton tail or a ear of wheat, then it fits the bill, regardless of shape, or material.

Stock Selection

When it comes to stock selection, the world is your oyster. There is no such thing as wrong choice. I have used old roots, clean material, bits of branches, and other odd pieces of wood. If it's wood use it. The only thing you really have to grapple with is how you'll hold it on the lathe. Also make sure that if you are turning an odd shaped piece that you watch out for the normal dangers with this sort of turning; barked knuckles, loose clothing, etc. Common sense really.

Tools Needed

I generally use the following tools to create my masterpieces:

  • 3 mm bowl gouge (1/2 inch)
  • 6 mm bowl gouge (1/4 inch) for detail and neck work
  • 6 mm drill (1/4 inch)
  • A Dremel with a sanding drum attachment (optional)
  • and of course my trusty Teknatool 1200 and Nova Chuck

In addition, you will need a range of sandpaper.


Preparation for this project really consists of only two activities. Decide where you want the "neck" to be. This dictates the rotational center of your piece. And then mount your stock in whatever manner you can to rotate the piece with the neck as the center.


I mount the stock between centers, across grain, and turn a spigot on the end that will be the bottom (photo 1). This is then mounted in the chuck. The tail stock can now be moved out of the way (photo 2).

Photo 1
Photo 2

Now with the piece initially shaped, I rough form the neck to shape and size, ready for drilling (photo 3). The turning shown here is purely free form. You can make yours in the dimensions and shape that you feel will best present the textures, colors, and features of the wood you are using.

I now drill the neck (photo 4). Again the size of the hole is personal. It can be small or large, shallow or deep. The reason that I drill the hole now is that the act of drilling can cause some break away. By drilling before the final shaping of the neck, you can catch any break out and incorporate it in the final design.

Photo 3
Photo 4

Now shape the neck (photo 5). I prefer to put a flare on the lip in a traditional style, but again it depends on factors such as which way the wind is blowing and what you had for dinner last Sunday night. It is purely your choice. Another shape that can be done is to have a straight neck, and cut the end off on an angle with a small saw later.

I now apply a coat of whatever finish I am using. In this case I have used sanding sealer. This was then sanded back and a coat of friction polish was applied (photo 6).

Photo 5
Photo 6

At this point you are finished and can part the work off. Here I am using my parting tool made from a power hacksaw blade (photo 7) .

Photo 7

Finished turning

Rex Haslip


Back to the Top      
Articles | Instruction | Tools & Supplies
Clubs & Associations | Artist Pages | Other Links

About Us | Contact Us | Site Map | Privacy Policy

Advertise with Woodturns.com