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Turning
an Open Segmented Bowl
Click on any photo for an enlargement.
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The eighth row of open segments and the central ring
has been glued on. I have removed the Open Segment Jig. Now is a good
time to turn the inside of the bowl since I won't have to reach very
far inside and the narrow neck won't be in the way. Since I'm unsure
how strong the vase is I decided to turn the central ring smooth and
install my steady rest. That way there will be little stress on the
vase when I turn the inside. To turn the outside of the central ring
I used a very sharp skew as a scraper. Skews used like this, on the
outside of segmented bowls, are very good because the grain direction
is all the same and they leave a very fine surface finish.
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I have installed my steady rest and the vase inside
is ready to be turned.
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I used my Sorby RS2000 with a sharp teardrop-shaped
scraper to cut the inside of the vase. |
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The vase inside has been turned and sanded smooth.
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The tenth row of open segments has been glued on.
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The twelfth row of open segments is being glued on
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The final row of open segments has been glued on.
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I have remove the Open Segment Jig, including the indexing
ring, and installed the vase's lip section.
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The steady rest was reinstalled the for the remainder
of the turning. The next part to turn is the remaining vase interior.
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I used a small Sorby crookneck scraping tool with a
sharp teardrop scraper to cut the interior. This tool is really only
adequate for cutting a few inches beyond the tool rest, but that's
all I have to do. It does a nice job with no sanding necessary.
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With the inside of vase complete, I used a sharp skew,
held horizontally like a scraper, to cut the outside of the vase.
Since the skew is cutting thin shavings there is no problem with shavings
going under the steady rest rollers. |
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A small skew and small spindle gouge were used to shape
the vase's lip and base.
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This small screwdriver and an even smaller one was used
remove the remove the shavings from between the open segments. Compressed
air did a pretty good job of getting out most of the shavings.
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The vase was sanded up to 320-grit sandpaper followed
with a sanding using a maroon scotch brite pad. Scotch brite is color-coded
for abrasiveness. I think maroon is "medium".
The next step was to part the vase off the faceplate. I used the
above Sorby parting tool.
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I parted the base until I had a 1/2" tenon, which
is shown in the photograph. With the lathe off, I hand sawed through
the tenon. Then, I reverse turned the remaining stub off the vase
base.
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Here again is the completed open segment vase.
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